Chanel Healthy Glow Sheer Color (Les Beiges) in #40

I've been waiting for Healthy Glow Sheer Color SPF 15, aka Les Beiges, to come out since seeing them on the Canadian blogs.  I wasn't disappointed. 

Using the small half-moon brush that comes in the compact, a Nordstrom Pentagon City SA dusted #40 lightly over the powder foundation I was wearing that day.  I immediately loved the look - that natural radiance that Chanel claims Les Beiges is supposed to impart. Lit from within. I got the same result over liquid foundations and when worn on bare skin.  The bristles of the half-moon brush aren't very dense and only seem to pick up only a small amount of product, though enough to cover your blush if you're not careful. 

I also tried Les Beiges as  a  powder foundation using a traditional powder brush and Lisa Eldridge's buffing technique using a kabuki brush.  I didn't see much difference between them though I suspect that the kabuki technique uses more product and leaves more in the brush.  Les Beiges is not buildable so I needed to use a concealer for some areas.  The foundation brush and kabuki techniques covered these concealed areas nicely.  Here's how it looks as a powder foundation, applied with a kabuki brush.

The other products used included: Chanel Kaska Beige Eyeshadow Quad; Chanel Eyebrow Pencil #30 Brun Naturel; Chanel le Volume Mascara, Black; Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons #08 Ebony; Claudio Riaz Eye & Face Conceal 9; Chanel Lip Pencil, Nude; Chanel Glossimer #149 (discontinued).  Note to self:  CR concealer shows up in photos.

The effect of Les Beiges reminds me of T. le Clerc's loose powder, which I've been using for years, and reviewed here.  They never look powdery, even when first applied, and both give a "lit from within" look.

I don't understand the rationale for the color range that Chanel produced, though I would really like to know.  The SA chose #40 for me, which is slightly darker than my complexion, appears warm on my skin and gives me that healthy glow.  As a reference, I wear Chanel Perfection Lumiere #60. MAC NC45, Burberry Shear Luminous Foundation Trench 8, and LMdB Classic Flawless Finish #10.  I've read many contradictory reviews and color assessments of this collection.  I think it may be important to test it in store before purchasing.  I'm looking forward to experimenting with the other colors in the Les Beiges collection, especially for contouring. 

About the packaging:  I love the beige cover.  I wish though that Chanel would find a way to put the brush on the bottom of the compact.  It's really a PITA to deal with the loose protective cover that sits under the brush.

Have you tried Les Beiges?  What do you think of it?

Spring Skin Care Regime: Jane Iredale's PurePressed® Base Mineral Foundation and Sun Screens

I've got my winter regime down:  I discovered that using cleansing oils and Josie Maran Argan Daily Moisturizer for day and Josie Maran 100% argan oil at night seemed to control my skin's oil production.  No need to blot throughout the day.  I was so pleased with the results that I've decided to continue it.  Realizing that some liquid foundations can make oily skin look oilier in warmer weather, especially those that provide more coverage, I turned to my powder foundations.  Obvious, right?  Well, it took me a while...
 My current fave is Jane Iredale's PurePressed^® Base Mineral Foundation.  I bought my compact at a resort four years ago after discovering that I'd forgotten to pack face powder.  Back then the box and description didn't contain the word "foundation," so I didn't realize that's what it was.  I thought it was just powder that matched my skin tone perfectly.  It's all scratched up from rattling around in my handbag without its velveteen pouch for all that time! Too bad because it's refillable and I definitely plan to refill.

 

Photo from Jane Iredale.com

Here's my old compact - the color is Butternut.

 

It is sheer, it doesn't look cakey that is, even immediately after application.  It lived up its claim to act as a concealer - I simply dabbed a bit more over the areas in need.  I was really surprised that it covered the dark spots around my eyes even better than the concealers I've been using, though I still need to use a corrector to cover under eye circles.  No oily spots appeared around my nose around lunchtime (the first place oil appears).  I understand that you have to buff on most mineral foundations and this one comes with a round sponge, but I just dabbed it on with a fluffy foundation brush. It  wore for eight hours. It claims to be water resistant for up to 40 minutes, which I can't verify, but we'll see how it does when it gets really muggy and I begin to "glow" on my way to work!

 

You can purchase the full range of colors, from very light to dark, at Jane Iredale online.  Its color selection is meticulous:  it's broken down into three ranges of Neutral, Warm, and Cool, with light to darker shades included in each one.  (I wear Butternut in the Warm range.)  Nordstrom carries the light to medium colors but doesn't specify which range they come from. 

 

 PurePressed® Base Mineral Foundation also provides broad spectrum SPF 20 and UVA P++  protection (moderate UVA protection).  The Jane Iredale site provides this list of ingredients:

 

Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 14%, Zinc Oxide 3%. Ingredients: Mica, Boron Nitride, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Plankton Extract, Algae Extract, Pinus Strobus (Pine) Bark Extract, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Extract. May Contain: Iron Oxides, Ultramarines, Chromium Oxide Greens.

 

I'm fine with this level of sun protection since the Josie Maran Argan Daily Moisturizer I apply under my foundation is SPF 40.  I don't spend a lot of time in the sun, but get some exposure during my daily commute.  After dark spots appeared around my eyes a year or so ago I've been more diligent in my use of sunscreen.  I dab the Iredale powder over the spots if not over my entire face before I leave the office in the evening.   

 

The recently released Australian sunscreen study confirmed that those "white people," to use the New York Times' term, under the age of 55 who "diligently use [SPF15] sunscreen every day can slow or even prevent for a time the development of wrinkles and sagging skin," but was inconclusive about the sun's affects on darker skin, because none were tested.  American doctors interviewed in follow up said that results for darker skin were likely to be the same though the sun's effects take longer to become apparent. 

 

There are other reasons to use sunscreen besides as defense against photo aging:  it is critical in the prevention of skin cancer, which people of color also get. The products I'm testing in an attempt to fade the dark spots around my eyes also advise using sunscreen because the tested areas become even more sun sensitive. 

 

Pink Sith has posted loads of very useful links about sunscreens in a review of Supergoop! SPF 50 Antioxidant-Infused Sunscreen Mist with Vitamin C.  I don't know about you, but I have found the subject of sunscreens confusing because there are so many kinds - some stable some not, some physical some chemical - which is which?  I only recently learned that sunscreens can deteriorate and/or expire.   Expiration dates are printed on the containers.  Check the dates before you buy.

 

Every spring Sephora sells a Sunsafety Kit containing travel-sized sunscreen products (and a bronzer or two) from a variety of companies.  This year's kit included Shiseido, Clarins, Peter Thomas Roth, Tarte, Josie Maran and several others.  I was really pleased that it also included a hand lotion from L'Occitane.  I always forget my hands and décolletage.  The kit sold out immediately this year, but they released a second round last year so keep your eyes open.  Most of the products contain chemical sunscreens - if you have no concerns about them, the kit's a great value and opportunity to try different products. 

What's your spring and summer skincare regime?  How do you fight the "oilies?"  I know I'll have to make adjustments when it get's muggy here!  What's your favorite sunscreen?

 

Dolce and Gabbana Perfect Finish Powder Foundation

I had been curious about this powder foundation since I started using the Dolce and Gabbana cream foundation months ago but given the difficulties of finding the right color I didn't want to buy it without examining it in person first.  I stopped into Saks when I was in New York last month to get color matched and "Almond" turned out to be a perfect color for me.  It doesn't go on as orange as it looks in the pan, but imparts a healthy glow.  Love.

Click on photos to enlarge.

 

The powder section lifts to reveal sponge storage and another mirror.

It can be applied to dry or wet.  Both methods of application provide sheer to full coverage.  Dry application looks a little powdery at first but within 30 minutes or so settles into a natural look.  The wet application looks matte at first then looks natural within thirty minutes.   Dolce and Gabbana claims that these two applications provide very different looks – the dry application can provide a sheerer application than the wet, the wet application is supposed to be velvety -  but I can't tell the difference by mid-day.  Because I have oily skin, my face looks dewy either way.   

Still, this is one of my favorite foundations.  Both methods of application covered subtle discolorations, evening out my skin tone, and even covered a lighter shade of concealer.  Both applications are buildable and do not oxidize.  Why have I never tried powder foundations before?  (Well, actually, I have - turns out that the Jane Iredale compact product I've had for years turns out to be a powder foundation too!  I thought it was pressed powder.  Anyway…) The dry application with a brush is the fastest ever- speed and ease of application are requirements for my early morning routine.  I can’t wait to try it in the summer when my skin is super oily. 

I usually use Tatcha papers to blot oily bits after lunch.  Unlike some foundations that come off on the paper when blotting, this foundation stays put.  Though one could use it for touch ups during the day or for evening, I’ve found it really isn’t necessary, given the foundation’s lasting power. 

The Dolce and Gabbana Perfect Finish Powder Foundation sells for $59 at selected Saks stores and online.  The color chart on the Dolce and Gabbana site is better than the one on the Saks site, but I highly recommended getting color matched in person.  Check the Dolce and Gabbana sites for store locations.

Do you have a favorite powder foundation?

My Best of 2011

Favorite Makeup for 2011 by avaruth on polyvore.com

It was hard to decide on my "Best" list.  I've used many products that I like a lot, so I decided to hone down the list to those things I reach for automatically and most frequently.  

 Le Metier de Beaute Flawless Face Palette:  I've hit pan on three out of the four products contained in this palette:  the powder, highlighter and blush. It's so convenient and fast to swing each of these products out of the barrel, I reach for it most mornings when I'm in a hurry, and use one brush.  It’s also brilliant for travel.  I only used the bronzer in the summer, but lately I've begun to use it for contour more often than not. The convenience of this palette is under rated.  I hope LMdB will consider routinely selling this palette as a customizable one;  magnetized trays would make it easier to insert the colors that suite various skin tones.

LMdB Peau Vierge Anti-Aging Complexe Tinted Treatment:  I immediately loved the glow this product gave my face and have used it almost every day since I won it in a Neiman Marcus drawing.  At the time of my review, it had not lived up to its claims to lessen dark circles, smooth fine lines, blur blemishes and tighten pores within a week of once-daily use.  It took longer than a week, but my skin looks much better now, most noticeably my skin tone has evened out, and fine lines smoothed out.  It's expensive at $125 for 1 oz., but a little goes a long way:  1oz. lasted six months.

YSL Noir Radical Mascara:  Can I say it's L'Oreal Voluminous on steroids?  It volumizes as promises, and it's subtly blacker than its cousin YSL Faux Cils.  It doesn't crumble at the end of the day like Voluminous, and though it isn't advertised as waterproof, it doesn't run as easily as some (Eyes to Kill, I'm thinking of you!)  You do have to be careful to close the tube tightly, as it does have a tendency to dry out quickly.  Since it's expensive, I like to buy it during Nordstrom's one-day Mascara Madness event in which you buy two tubes and get one free.  I go in with a friend if I can, or I buy when Nordies offers double points.


Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Color:  I love this lipstick more than any other!  First of all, it's not completely matte.  It's just not so shiny that your lips proceed you into a room!  The brighter colors looked odd (to me) on my medium skin tone, but I fell in love with the darkest red, Le Sensuelle.  It has incredible staying power, so I don't have to worry about looking totally washed out after a business lunch if I can't get away to re-apply.  It's perfect with the Topkapi quad and Rouge blush from the Byzance collection, better than the lipstick in that collection, in my opinion.

Chanel Kaska Beige Quad:  The colors are the perfect neutrals for me.  I even use a little of the second darkest color to fill in my eyebrows if I'm in a real hurry.   Since I learned this little trick from a Chanel national artist, I've been surprised at the range of colors I can use to fill them in.  I'm not talking about primary or secondary colors of course, but muted browns, taupes, including those with a hint of purple could be considered.  The Chanel artist used the darkest purple-toned shadow in the Prelude quad on me.

Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Longwear Luminous Eye Shadows:  I especially love the black Mirifique.  I haven't worn it as an eye shadow, but as a most glamorous eye liner.  The small, curved, brush that comes with each shadow is the best I've ever used.  Chanel should add an standard-sized version to its permanent collection.  Emerveille, the pale pink/peach shadow is beautiful, a great everyday color for many skin tones;  it is notably good for medium-to-dark skin tones in that the color really shows - it's not just ashy.  The color pay off for the green-colored Epatant was not as good unless used over a primer.

Chanel Nail Color in Mimosa and Khaki Vert:  I'd have never thought that yellow and green nail polish would become my regular "go to" colors!  I love Graphite too. 

Jouer Luminizing Moisture Tint:  The last impossibly humid weeks of September 2011 gave me a new appreciation for what a workhorse this tinted moisturizer is! It’s oil-free, fragrance-free, buildable, and water-resistant. It never budged, lasting at least 15 hours with no fading.  For women of a certain age, all foundations should be water-resistant. 

Vera Wang and Dolce and Gabbana Rose the One scents:  Rose the One obviously smells like roses - warm roses, if that's possible.  I don't know how to describe the Vera Wang; is it "cool"  since it appeals to me primarily in spring and summer?  I'll learn how to write about scent as the year progresses.  For now I'll just say that these provoke a visceral response in me.   
 

Koh Gen Do High Definition Makeup Trial Set

I've been intending to review this Koh Gen Do High Definition Makeup Trial Set ($20) for several months.  An e-mail in my inbox this morning announcing Koh Gen Do's end of year make up sale spurred me to write though I haven't used all the products in the trial set.

The tin box contained two .14 oz tubes of Maifanshi Moisture Foundation in colors 013 and 003 (additional colors available upon request); Maifanshi Makeup Color Base in Pearl White; .04 oz. container of Maifanshi Face Powder with a full-size puff; Makeup Color Base in Yellow and Green.

The kit also contained a small packet of cleansing water and three cotton pads.  Koh Gen Do developed the yellow and green color bases and the Maifanshi Makeup Color Base in Pearl White without parabens after creating this trial kit, and included paraben-free samples of those.  

A Japanese actress created Koh Gen Do as a skincare line about 25 years ago. The line has evolved since then - the Maifanshi Moisture Foundation was developed especially for high definition cameras.  It is one of my favorites, right up there with the Dolce and Gabbana Cream Foundation, and Burberry  Luminous Foundation.  Koh Gen Do describes this foundation as a "mineral makeup cream foundation that turns into liquid foundation when applied, with 60% water encapsulated into the formula to give you the superior coverage of a cream foundation and a smooth, sheer finish like a liquid foundation. The foundation was tested and created to wear beautifully for 10 hours or more with a perfect ratio of 60% water, 30% highly refined oils and 10% powder."  It does not contain sunscreens but is paraben-free.

I found that this foundation really does give a flawless finish.  Applied first with fingers then smoothed out with a foundation brush, this foundation disappeared into my skin, evening out my complexion and lessening the appearance of my pores.  Applied more  heavily, it worked well in place of a concealer under my eyes.  There were no signs of fading after 10 hours and it caused no irritation or breakouts.  A sheer application is all I need on my most of my face so the .14 oz tube will go a long way, at least 4 applications.

Color 003, included in the kit, is perfect for my NC 45 skin tone.   Maifanshi Moisture Foundation comes a broad range of colors that will suit lighter and darker skin tones.  You can see them here.

The Maifanshi Face Powder was a nice surprise.  I was bit skeptical since it is snow white in the jar, but when applied with either the puff or a powder brush it disappears completely, leaving absolutely no ashiness, or a cakey finish.  This powder takes the Moisture Foundation to an ethereal finish. 

The color bases are supposed to cover discolorations.  I only tried the yellow one and it was too sheer for me.   Besides, the foundation worked so well that they were unnecessary. 


I still haven't opened the Cleansing Spa Water sample or used used the cotton pads included in the kit, since I had already purchased the cleansing water and cleansing water cloths during a Sephora sale.


         Image from Koh Gen Do.

 The cleansing water is excellent, it works as cleansing waters are supposed to, removing virtually all traces of the water-resistant makeup and eye makeup, leaving my face feeling clean with no rinsing required.  White Birch Sap is one of the key ingredients, which Koh Gen Do claims is "harvested only three weeks in early spring, [and] contributes an abundance of minerals and xylitol as it lifts off makeup, oils and residue."  It is oil-free, alcohol-free, and are safe for contact lens wearers.  It is are infused with six essential herbs that are supposed to protect and nurture skin:

• Rosemary Leaf Extract
• Sage Leaf Extract
• Lavender Extract
• Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
• Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract
• Ginger Root Extract

The Cleansing Spa water is $39 for 10.15 oz. - expensive to use as a daily cleanser to remove a full face of makeup including foundation, blush, and eye makeup. As I explained in this review of Vichy Cleansing Water, I use it primarily in place of toner.

         Image from Koh Gen Do.

 The wipes, which are soaked with the cleansing water, are among the best I've used.  They are a little stiffer than most, but are thoroughly saturated with product and remove my makeup as well as the oil and milk cleansers I usually use.  They are sold in 3 packages of 10 wipes, which means the very last of your 30 wipes won't be dried out when when you reach the end.  The cleansing water and wipes do contain parabens.  At $39, they are also pricey. 

Koh Gen Do's makeup sale lasts through January 5, 2012, 12am EST.  I'm not sure if the cleansing water and cloths are included in the sale.  The trial kit is not. 

I bought my trial kit from the Koh Gen Do site and cleansing products from Sephora.  As far as I know Sephora only carries the line at their New York Meatpacking District store, the Forum Shops in Las Vegas and online.  The line is also available at Barneys.  To be clear, the sale is only on the Koh Gen Do online.  What have your experiences been with this line?  Do you plan to buy anything during the sale?  I'm pretty sure that at 30% off, I won't be able to resist the foundation and powder!

Dolce and Gabbana Perfect Finish Creamy Foundation

Perfect Finish Creamy Foundation is one of Dolce and Gabbana's newest products.  It provides medium to maximum coverage with an SPF of 15.  Of the 15 shades offered, Amber 148 and Soft Tan 160 match my NC45 skin tone when blended in.  But Amber 148, subtly pink in tone, turned gray within an hour of application, so I went with Soft Tan 160, which is...orange.  Yes.  I tested the foundation for three days applied over Olay Regenerist Moisturizer SPF 50, using a variety of application methods.  On the first day I used the foundation brush included in a gift with purchase Saks featured that day, which resulted in maximum coverage. Naturally, it seems heavier than a liquid foundation when first applied, but is weightless after it dries down. It looks matte at first, but settled into a semi-matte look and is not at all cakey. It did not turn gray or oxidize.  But it was...orange.  Fortunately I just worked in my cube that day! 

I used Le Metier de Beaute Peau Vierge Anti-Aging Complex on the second day, and applied the foundation with a kabuki brush.  Peau Vierge's illuminating quality canceled the foundation's orangy tinge, and the kabuki brush made for a sheerer application.  Love.  I used  a Sephora 44 stippling brush the third day which gave even sheerer coverage.  Love even more.

The creamy consistency of this foundation won't be suitable for me during the hot, humid summers here, but it will be perfect during the cold winter months. 

The foundation comes in an elegant, but heavy glass jar, and comes with a spatula. I will decant into a smaller plastic screw-top jar for daily use, so that I don't have to dip daily into the larger container and risk contamination.  It will also be handier for travel.
I've include an image of the color chart Saks mailed; the one on the site no way near represents the true colors.  Though the mailed chart is more accurate, given the vagaries of skin tone and color matching, I strongly advise you to visit a counter and get testers before purchasing.

Click to enlarge

I'm impressed with the quality of this product and would like to try the powder foundation, which has gotten rave reviews, but I'll wait until I can visit the Saks counter in New York in January.
I bought my foundation from Alissa Masuda at the Post Street Saks in San Francisco, 415-438-5224; It's also available on the Saks site.  

Burberry Sheer Luminous Fluid Foundation, Trench No.8 and Trench No.9

After my experience with Chanel Perfection Lumiere (PL), in which I learned that my complexion can fall between shades, I decided to test a couple of samples of Burberry Sheer Luminous Fluid Foundation, (1 oz., $52) before buying.  Because the weather is much cooler than when I tested PL, and because this formula is supposed to hydrate, I prepped my skin with a light-weight moisturizer with SPF, but no primer, before applying Trench No.9, then Trench No.8, the two darkest colors.  I wore each for two days. 

I applied the foundation with a kabuki brush, switching to a foundation brush for under eye application.  It has a moderately strong, but pleasant scent that dissipates quickly.  Though it is sheer, the foundation is buildable, and nicely covered slightly dark areas, including under my eyes, in lieu of a concealer.  It dried down quickly into a natural skin-like finish neither dewy, nor matte.  It lasted the eight hours that I wore it, without any signs of fading.

Trench No. 9, the darkest shade, seemed to be the best color match when applied to my jaw, so I tested it first.   For reference, I match MAC NC45, Chanel PL Beige Amber 44 and Beige 60, and Le Métier Flawless Finish Foundation #10.  It darkened a half-shade after drying down (if that's possible) than my neck, but was the same shade as my hands.  I only needed light blotting in the T zone by noon, which, for me, is par for the course.  Thumbs up!

Trench No.8 was a tad too light on application, but darkened to my natural shade and blended nicely from the jaw line into my neck.   Perfect! 

Burberry Sheer Luminous Fluid Foundation contains UV filters.  Because I tested samples, I don't have a box to reference for other ingredients, nor are they published on Burberry or Nordstrom sites where it is sold.  Cafe Makeup published a list here.  

Burberry is available at Nordstrom online and at a few of their stores.  I got my samples from Kristy Hoffman at the San Francisco Nordstrom on Market Street, 415-243-8500, kristy.hoffman@nordstrom.com. 

Chanel Perfection Lumiere Long-Wear Flawless Fluid Makeup

Image from Chanel.com

Chanel has introduced a new foundation formula, and at the same time, finally expanded its color range!  It has been a long time coming.  According to the website this is foundation is

"effortless to apply, with seamless blendability for a naturally flawless effect, this breakthrough foundation is the ideal all-day, everyday formula – suitable for all skin types in a diverse range of 20 shades."

The product insert adds,

"A perfect complexion requires controlled light.  This is why the CHANEL Laboratories have developed the patented CHANEL Perfect Light Control complex.  This combination of  two hemispherical powders (one transparent and one coated with mineral ceramic pigments), perfectly corrects all imperfections while bringing gorgeous radiance to the face.  The skin is smooth and luminous and the complexion even."

I was pleased with the color, finish and performance.  The coverage is good, it evened out my complexion as promised, and dried to a natural, slightly dewy look.  It did not break me out (though I don't tend to break out anyway).  I forgot to wear it for 15 hours (oops!), but it lasted for 11 without any sign of fading. Choosing a color was a little difficult:   There were two colors that blended in well where applied on my jaw, but looked quite different when applied to my entire face.  While both looked good, one color lived up the promise of luminosity better than the other.  So if you can, test a few colors on your entire face.

Samples, full-size bottle in the background.

Pump bottle.

Here a few swatches of the darker colors.  My local Nordstrom had all of them except #54 and 114).

The Perfection Lumiere line also includes a range of pressed powders and correctors, which weren't available at my Nordies yet, but are on the Chanel website.  I'm eager to try those.

Perfection Lumiere Long-Wear Flawless Fluid Makeup probably won't replace my favorite Jouer Luminizing Moisture Tint in the summer time when I need a water-resistant product, but will become my second favorite along with Le Metier de Beaute Classic Flawless-Finish Liquid Foundation.